We discovered our favorite morning adventure in Puerto Vallarta completely by accident.
One morning, my partner and I decided to skip the beach and wander up from Isla Cuale. We had no real plan. Just curiosity and good walking shoes.
That's when we found the stairs.
The Stairway to Heaven (And They Mean It)
The locals call it the "Stairway to Heaven," and after climbing it, I understand why. This dramatic stone staircase ascends steeply from the river island straight into the hillside neighborhood of Gringo Gulch.
It's not a gentle climb. My calves reminded me of that fact for two days afterward.
But the views? Worth every single step.
We started our climb around 7:30 AM when the morning air was still cool and the neighborhood was just waking up. The stairs are wide at the bottom, then they narrow as you climb higher. Some sections have railings. Others don't.
I'm not going to sugarcoat it: this isn't for anyone with mobility issues. But if you're reasonably fit and looking for an adventure, it's AMAZING.
Where the Real Magic Happens
Here's what nobody tells you about Gringo Gulch: the famous Stairway to Heaven is just the beginning.
Once you reach the top of that first climb, the entire neighborhood opens up like a maze of cobblestone paths, hidden passages, and secret staircases that zigzag between buildings and cut through lush tropical foliage.
We spent three hours up there on our first visit. Just wandering. Getting lost. Finding new paths.
Some staircases lead to dead ends with breathtaking lookout points. Others connect different levels of the neighborhood in ways that make no logical sense but somehow work perfectly. We found stairs carved between two buildings that opened onto a tiny plaza we would have never discovered otherwise.
The best part? We barely saw any tourists. Just local residents doing their morning exercise routine, climbing these same stairs like it's no big deal.
Views That Make You Stop and Stare
I've seen a lot of beautiful views in my travels. But something about the panoramic vistas from Gringo Gulch hit different.
From various points throughout the neighborhood, you can see sweeping views of all of Puerto Vallarta spread out below you. Banderas Bay sparkles in the morning sun. The surrounding canyons and hillsides create layers of green that fade into the distance.
We found one particular spot: I won't tell you exactly where because discovering it yourself is half the fun: where we could see the entire city, the bay, AND the mountains all at once.
We sat there for twenty minutes. Just breathing. Just being.
If you're really ambitious, there's an observation tower near Mirador de La Cruz that takes you even higher. We climbed it on our second visit. The 360-degree views from up there are absolutely insane.
Bring your camera. Trust me.
The Elizabeth Taylor Connection
Gringo Gulch got its nickname back in the 1960s when it became home to Hollywood celebrities escaping to Mexico. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton lived here during their tumultuous love affair.
You can still see Casa Kimberly, Burton's former home, which is now a boutique hotel and museum.
Walking these same cobblestone streets where they once walked adds this romantic, nostalgic layer to the whole experience. The architecture is distinctly Mexican: colorful villas with tile work, carved wooden doors, and bougainvillea spilling over walls.
It's quiet up here. Residential. The kind of place where you hear birds singing and church bells ringing instead of car horns and bar music.
Our Morning Walk Routine
After that first accidental discovery, we made Gringo Gulch our regular morning walk destination whenever we're staying at any of the puerto vallarta condo house rentals in the area.
Here's our typical route:
Start at Isla Cuale around 7:00 AM. Cross the bridge and find the Stairway to Heaven entrance. Climb up (take your time, there's no rush). At the top, turn right and follow the cobblestone street upward. Take every interesting-looking staircase you see. Get lost. That's the whole point.
We usually bring water, our phones for photos, and nothing else. The whole walk takes about two to three hours depending on how many detours we take.
Sometimes we stop at a small cafe we found tucked into one of the back streets. They make killer coffee and serve it on a tiny terrace with more of those ridiculous views.
What to Know Before You Go
Wear proper shoes. Not flip-flops. Not sandals. Actual walking shoes with good grip. Those cobblestones get slippery, especially if there's been any morning dew.
Bring water. There aren't a lot of places to stop and buy drinks up there.
Go early. By 10:00 AM, the sun gets intense and the climb becomes much less pleasant. Plus, morning light is better for photos.
Allow time to wander. Don't rush this experience. The whole point is discovering hidden corners and unexpected views.
If you're staying in one of the puerto vallarta vacation condos nearby, you can literally walk to Gringo Gulch. It's one of the best features of staying in this part of town.
Why We Keep Coming Back
I've done this walk probably fifteen times now. Sometimes with my partner. Sometimes solo. Once with a friend who was visiting.
It never gets old.
Every time, I notice something new. A doorway I hadn't seen before. A different angle on a familiar view. A cat napping on a sunny step. An elderly woman watering her rooftop garden.
There's something meditative about climbing those stairs in the morning. Something that clears your head and reminds you why you came to Puerto Vallarta in the first place.
It's not the beaches or the bars or the tourist attractions. It's these quiet moments of discovery. These hidden corners that most visitors never find.
For solo travelers, it's a perfect morning activity. Safe. Peaceful. The kind of experience where you can be alone with your thoughts but never feel lonely.
For couples, it's wonderfully romantic without being cheesy. No need for fancy restaurants or expensive tours. Just two people, some stairs, and incredible views.
The Perfect Start to Any Day
After our morning walk through Gringo Gulch, we usually head down to grab breakfast somewhere in Old Town, then maybe hit the beach or do some work if we need to catch up on emails.
Some mornings we follow it up with yoga on the beach. That combination: the hill climb followed by beach yoga: is my absolute favorite way to start a day in Puerto Vallarta.
My legs are always a little tired. My camera roll is always full. And I'm always glad we made the effort to climb those stairs.
Because here's the thing: Puerto Vallarta has plenty of beautiful beaches and great restaurants. But experiences like Gringo Gulch? Those hidden, local, authentic moments that make you feel like you've discovered something special?
Those are rare.
And sooo worth seeking out.
Highly recommended. Just remember your good shoes.
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